The unplanned ride to the dreaded
Rohtang Pass and Kheer Ganga
With riding already in
blood, Malli suggested we do Rohtang
Pass - Manikaran on our bikes.
One fine Friday evening
in March 2011 and we 8 guys left for the ride.
Day 1: 30th June’2011: Kurukshetra –
Manikaran
My first
destination was Manikaran, I was misinformed there by a local that leh would
get open by 1st June and Rohtang is already open, so I thought of spending a
week in Kheer Ganga and Old Manali and then cross Marhi and move towards
Rohtang Pass.
I was starting my
journey From Kurukshetra and hit Chandigarh in 1 hour and 15 mins. i was on the
highway and hit Ropar road in no time. Early hours of morning looked beautiful,
I was dreaming about different places and was excited to reach my destination.
On the way, I stopped after Bilaspur to have tea and biscuits. Then again I
continued almost non-stop till Pandoh dam, where I had my breakfast. I gave
lift to a Russian guy who was in India from last 2 months and didn’t had much
money. He told me how he survived on hitchhiking, staying in sikh temples and
eating free food outside temples. 3:00am, read the clock. I took a right from
Bhunter and reached KAsol at 4:30am. An old lady approached me at Kasol bridge
and told me to take a room in her guest house which was on Kasol-Manikaran
road.
After a beautiful night we reached to
Manikaran in morning at 5:00am. After having a hot water bath and Breakfast in the temple we decided to take some rest in
the temple.. After that we enjoyed the food in Gurudwara and planning for Our
next day Destination.
Day 2: 1st July’2011: Burshaini – Kheer Ganga
We started our
journey for Kheerganga at 12:00pm in the midday. Then We are Starts our Bikes
and reached in village called Burshaini from where we need to do a 16 KM
trekking to Kheerganga( Now that was real surprise) We reached Burshaini at
1:30am. We decide to take some refreshment before start our journey.
We went in a restaurant (a small
wooden place) which was quite dark with few dimmed lights. I could hardly see
any Indian traveler in that area and there was no one around us except 2-3 guys
who use
to work there. The
food in that restaurant was quite cheap (Cheap as compared to the effort they
put in to bring food materials by trekking for more than 3 kilometers). We
ordered ‘daal makhani’ and ‘butter roti’ (as we were quite diet conscious ).
After having delicious food we sat in that restaurant while admiring the beauty
of that place. It was so peaceful there that I could hear the sound of my own
heartbeat. Suddenly a beautiful angel entered in and the sound became louder.
She was a foreigner and she sat beside us. Taking a chance we started talking
to her. Her name was Alisa and she was
as beautiful as her name, having light brown eyes and face glittering likes a
star as if god has sent his personal angel on earth. We came to know that she
was from Russia and was also going to Kheerganga. We came in altogether in a
different world, sitting in the lap of nature having dense jungle on my left
and glacier on my right. It was a beautiful place which made my mind relaxed
and soul pure.
After 2 hours of chatting with Alisa we came
to know that she trade clothes and jewelry from India to Russia and she loves
India a lot. It was sixth time she visited India. Then she took out Marijuana
from her pocket and started smoking, also offering us the same but to her bad
luck we refused (Now we know why she loves India). After a wonderful few hours
of chatting we finally starts our trekking to kheerganga. On our remaining path we crossed so
many small but beautiful waterfalls, some narrow slippery paths having
beautiful flowers all around side and huge trees covering the sky. Jungle was
so dense that sunlight was hardly reaching the ground but In spite of all the
danger we couldn’t stop ourselves appreciating the beauty of that place.
Adventure Begins:
I was greeted by
literally everyone I met on the way. In contrast to my imagination of
unfriendly villagers there, I found everyone so happy and amiable. In around 1
hour, I reached village KALGA (Small and a beautiful place 3 KM away from
Burshaini) on foot, and when I thought I would drink some water I heard an old
voice – “Aap shayad yahan pehli baar ayein hain, kuch kaam tha? Kuch chahiye?”
I immediately realized what is behind his offering, must be Malana cream(a kind
of Hash).
Alisa advised us not to catch the shorter path as it
had rained there 2 days before and path could be quite dangerous. She also
shocked us when she told us that an Israeli woman lost her life while trekking
on same path few days before. But I didn’t know why I wanted to go from that
path (Quite foolish of me). I was tempting my fate (To be frank I was not
taking it seriously).
After travelling for another 1 hour we saw a
hypnotizing natural phenomenon, a long white cascading ribbon of silky
waterfall was in front of us (almost 100 feet in height) graciously provided by
Mother Nature herself. It was the most striking waterfall I have ever seen in
my life, huge in size and loud in sound. The sound was so loud that we could
hardly hear each other’s voices. I stepped into the water and it was freezing
cold. Although access to this living waterfall was not very easy but it made us
so relaxing that we almost forgot that we are tired. We
took rest for 15 minutes, had our energy bars, a small photo session and we decided
to resume our journey. We needed to cross that waterfall in order to move
further. We crossed the waterfall by walking over a wooden log kept there by
locals. It was quite dangerous as wooden log as wet and
round. We cautiously crossed it and continued further. The path was becoming
steeper. It was getting hard for us to climb and then we saw a scene which
scared the hell out of us. We saw a board on a tree which said that a young
person fell from this place and lost his life (May his soul rest in peace). We
looked at each other and thanked god that we are safe.
The moment we
stepped in Kheerganga we saw a huge ground (like a golf course) surrounded by
tall and majestic mountains 360 degrees and crowned with white snow, cattle’s
were grazing the ground and dense white clouds were all around us. I rubbed my
eyes and pinched myself to confirm if I was not dreaming. It was totally like
heaven on earth, so peaceful and so pure. It was the stuff that dreams are made
of. It’s the first time ever I am feeling short of words to describe this
beautiful and heavenly place.
Far away we could
see small 3-4 hut shaped lodges providing shelter for not more than Rs 200 per
room. We went up to the lodges and took a room in a lodge which was owned by a French
woman. We could not see any Indian traveler around us there were all foreigners
in that area. the time was 7:00pm we are enjoying in kheer ganga and felt
tired. After taking a rest for an hour we decided to take hot water
bath in Gauri kund(named after a Hindu Goddess ‘Gauri’). It’s a religious hot
water bath which was few meters away from our lodge. The water was so hot and
temperature of the surrounding was not more than 10 degrees. I wonder from
where the hot water comes on such heights. We were not allowed to go further
due to religious beliefs.
One of our friend (Karun) starts to collect Dry
needles from coniferous trees for bonfire. When we talk about Bonfire then every
reader will set there mind that he/she
was sit round of bonfire with their
partner and makes lovable talks butt…..
I want to say to readers don’t forget I am with my Best friends of
course the co-riders with me so this is a time when we feel the beautiful night
at that place. I mean to say that because of my deep love towards the night. So it’s a real
time for party and u know Trip Riders are ready for any conditions because
before starting our trip we plan every thing whether it is small or big. So we
open our bag pack that’s have little Quote of Whisky (Daru). It’s a secret for
you also I know m not mention it before this we bought these bottles from Chandigarh… Sector 22(oho…I know
it’s not important). Our other crew members do
not know about it…so this is a huge blast for them. Then it is time to
start party. We make a circle around that bonfire and starts our party….
As we know in many
parts of Mountain’s electricity is
absent for many hours But in Kheer Ganga have no electricity source except a
single Solar light . Then we start drinking (or in hindi we say madira-pan ) after
that we singing songs..oh I am sry I was not told you that I am sing a
little bit .. So we start singing songs which suits that’s auspicious moments. Suddenly
we saw there will be a formation of a clouds from the
smoke of our bonfire. I do not have words to explain that moment what me and my
friends feel. I can not explain that awesome situation and feelings that I feel
at that time in the White light of Moon. Although foreigners were smoking
Marijuana all around and they are offering us to take some puffs of that But we
again refuse it , In spite of this I was getting very divine feeling in that . After
a long party we all are going to sleep in our huts.
Day 3: 2nd July’2011: In Kheer Ganga
Next Morning, When
m open my eyes and open the door of hut, m Shocked to see the Green Beauty of
Kheer Ganga. In front of our Huts there is mountain Covered with ice. After
that ,we are decided to take bath in hot pond of water (Gauri’s Kund). I met a BABA there who
told me that he is absconding and is wanted by Delhi police.
He must have considered me a harmless
guy. I was striking well with the locals. Baba asked me to give him some
English whiskey and I bartered a few things with him for whiskey.
We started our day with Signature and
Golden Onion Rings followed by Joints. Food served was good (we actually
ordered about 5 plates of Golden Onion Rings). After Some time we are feeling
so hungry and decided to have “Parathas” there (actually delicious - very much
not expected from the place). M totally surprised when I saw Board of that
restaurant named ”OO YARA….SAB KUCH MILEGA”. Now we decided to hangout nearby in
Kheer Ganga.
All day we enjoy
the Weather and speechless beauty of Kheer Ganga After taking a Cup of tea we came back into our Huts and had a very
special drink of Kheerganga (Giner-Lemo-Honey also famous for its medicinal
values). We also talked to our lodge owner who was a French lady. She was living
there in Kheerganga from past 3 years. She was running that lodge with an
Indian Man. She left everything from her country and has been living here for
no reason, then we met a Russian man living in our lodge who was in Kheerganga
from past 2 years and just practicing yoga.
Next morning we packed
our bags for our return journey. This time we decided to take a longer and a
safer path.We were leaving Kheer Ganga and I felt so
dejected. I didn’t know what bond I built with this place in a single day that
I didn’t feel like going back. There is actually something magical about this
valley, a French women living there for 3 years and running a lodge, a Russian
man living there for 2 years and doing nothing but practicing yoga and Bhim who
left his family to earn his living, so many stories and just a simple
connection KHEERGANGA.
I bet if you come
to this place once, you would love to come here second time as you can simply
not get enough of such a place. With so many good and few bitter memories we
said adieu to Kheer Ganga hoping we could visit it again. For me the title of
this place was truly justified “The Magical Valley” and in order to believe you
need to visit this magical valley because it’s said that ‘Great things are done
when men and mountains meet. This is not done by jostling in the street’.
We reached busrshaini in 2 hours and started our bikes .In no time we are reached to Kullu. We are feeling so hungry because we had Breakfast only in morning.Suddenly we saw a beautiful view outer of Kullu.Peoples are sitting in river that looks like a heaven scenry. We take off our shoes and enter in water that was too child after that we eat lots of noodles with beer .
After a half hour rest we are starting our ride to Manali. Because our today's destination was Manali. We have to stay single night in Manali. After a beautiful Ride we reached to Manali at 7:00PM. Now it's time to take rooms in hotel . We take two rooms in 2000rs which was located on mall road name"HOTEL YAK" .
Then we enjoy some moments in Manali. After a long time we take a long sleep.
DAY 4: 3rd July’2011: Old Manali - Solang Valley
After many days we are sleeped well. We take bath properly and feeling so fresh.The view from room's Balcony was very awesome.After enjoying a hearty breakfast at the hotel.
Manali is one of the most sought after tourist destination in Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. Located in the foothills of the Great Himalaya Mountains it is one of the most sought after hill stations in India. It is a great destination for nature lovers, honeymooning couples, families, kids, vacationers and adventure enthusiasts. It is blessed with copious natural beauty and offering a spectacular views of snow-capped mountains. Due to similar ambiance to Switzerland is often called the Switzerland of India. A trip to Manali will provide you ample opportunities for cultural & heritage tourism and adventure tourism. You will have a wonderful opportunity to see some of the ancient temples, historical place and of course enjoy outdoor adventure activities. We left some of our bags in hotel room and starts our Motor Bike. Our first destination was Solang valley. Proceed for a half day sightseeing tour and visit Vashishtha Kund/ Temple , Hadimba Temple , Manu Mandir and Gayatri Mandir. Spend the rest of the day at leisure for independent activities. Tibetan Monastry is a must visited place We purchased some decorative articles and dress materials as a sign of memory .
After a ride of Solang valley we back to old Manali. We all are feeling very hungry. Naveen ask me that we should be enjoy the delicious food in old Manali. Enjoy a delicious serving of an egg puff, a crunchy salad, steaming parathas, momos or even your very own Maggi, everything is like what you’ve never tasted before.Then we order for a hookah on the side if you please. Relaxes any cold nerve in your body, is an anytime companion and is sure to take you on another trip right there!. After some time we are starts enjoying the Beautiful sights of old Manali. Suddenly we saw a bar that's looks like very Dashing interior .We enjoy some drinks there and went to our hotel because next day we decided to go Rohtang Pass .
DAY 5: 4th July’2011:Manali - Splendiferous Rohtang
I'm going to give a brief intro about the Rohtang pass for all those people, who don't know about one of the best travel destinations in India. Rohtang Pass at an altitude of 13,051 ft is a high mountain pass on the eastern Pir Panjal Range of the Himalayas which is at distance of 51 km from Manali. It connects the Kullu Valley with the Lahaul and Spiti Valleys of Himachal Pradesh, India. The road through the Kullu Valley, past Manali and over the Rohtang Pass to Keylong, and Lahul and on to Ladakh, has become very busy during the summer months as an alternate military route, following the Kargil Conflict in 1999 in addition to tensions in Kashmir. One has to cross Rohtang pass for reaching Ladakh and road between Manali - Rohtangpass - keylong - ladakh road is the most dangerous and highest roads in the world. It is suggested by some linguists that the name Rohtang is a Persian word meaning pile of dead bodies.
The pass is only open from June to September, has a well-deserved reputation for being very dangerous because of unpredictable snowstorms. Its name means a place where spirits freeze. Ro means spirit and tang is short for tangmo or cold. The Rohtang Pass certainly lives up to this reputation.
Some Tips :
- Start From Manali at early in the morning Before 6.00 AM ( Otherwise your vehicle can get caught in traffic jam and may nor get closet to Zero point.
- Carry Wollen dresses - Socks,Glouse, Sweatter, Wollen Trouser.
- Dark Cooling Glass is a must- To avoid Sun Glare.
- Persons with Breating problem, Asthma need to go prepared with madicines - Oxygen Level is low. Avoid Break fast while driving Uphill.
- Mobiles are of No use - No signal there.
Important:- Himachal pradesh government completely barred the vehicles from out of state from traveling to Rohtang Jot, an exception has been made in case the vehicle is heading to Ladakh, Lahaul or Spiti. In which case, they will need to get permit from the Sub-Divisional Magistrates Office in Manali during working hours (10AM to 5PM, Monday to Saturday (barring second Saturdays and Government Holidays).
We started to Rohtang pass from Manali at around 7 AM and our first stop is at a shop, where we rented the dress and shoes for getting into the snow. They charged 700 per person for shoes, long ski suite and a ski trainer. After dressed up in 3 layers of clothes we started on the Manali - Keylong highway to Rohtang Pass. Half the way to Rohtang pass had very good view points and not much scary as we expected. But after crossing a bridge over beas river, the scary road started. The bridge is located at the bottom of a huge mountain, which we have to travel completely to reach Rohtang Pass. From there was no perfectly laid road, and the road was completely filled with rocks and some places it was covered with snow. Even a small amount of negligence can lead to a disaster.
About 4 Km away from Kothi and 16 Km from Manali Town, at the start of the climb to the Rohtang Pass, are the beautiful Rahalla water falls at an altitude of 2,501 metres. It is approachable by bus, jeep or pony but we are on our bikes. Rahalla Falls is the highly good places to visit manali. The Rahalla falls are the result of melting glaciers. It is about 27 km away from Manali located at an altitude of 2,501 m. It is a natural spot where tourist can view the natural beauty. It is also become one of the famous tourist spot. It lies on the way to Rohtang Pass and the area around the Rahalla falls is marvelous, can't be expressed in words.
It was several traffic jams and long waits before we made it to Rohtang.
Driving in Rohtang pass road is not an easy one as people think and if you want to enjoy the ride to Rohtang pass, you must be a good biker, who know the road conditions there well. Preferably hire a local taxi in Manali instead of going for a self drive. We saw many people stuck in the middle of the road as they dont have much experience in driving that way. If you miss any road margin on the way, dont even think of being alive. Not even the road, the valley also scares you a lot. We had a mix of both happy and scary feeling by looking at the picturesque views of the valley.We felt that, we were on the top of the world.
As nearing rohtang we can see patches of snow bedded mountains, Streams flowing from molten ice, and starting point of River Beas.Though this pass has earned the title of being a little obnoxious and dangerous due to its unpredictable snowstorms and high winds, every tourist yearns to visit Rohtang pass in Himachal Pradesh.The climate on the day was very pleasing, and no rains. It was sunny all the way.
Climate :- In winter, the temperature can drop to below freezing point when heavy woolens are required. Summer temperature are mild and light woolens / cottons are recommended.
If you are planning to visit Rohtang pass, then please keep more amount of food in reserve as there are huge chances of getting struck in the middle way. And please dont dare to drive on this route, if you are not aware of driving in snow/mountains.
Our Bikes stopped very close to Zero Point. Oh What a scene - White carpetted surface every where. Just started walking over the cool icy Surface with the support of walking stick. We felt the chillness inside the Rubber Boot - on the Heel and toes. Alraedy there were scores of Tourists - Children , adults and of all ages. Very colourful dresses as seen all over the snow bed.After that we had a delicious breakfast(noodles and coffee).
After doing some bike stunts by Rahul(CM) in Rohtang we move towards Manali.
Till date I had been to many travel destination in North India, but this one day trip to Rohtang pass will be a life time experience for me. Next year I'm planning to visit Ladakh passing through the Rohtang pass.
Happy Riding......
