Tuesday 31 January 2017

Spiti Valley - Ride in Winter

                                                                                     Spiti Valley -  Winter Ride 

Hidden in the Trans Himalayan range between Tibet and Ladakh, Spiti valley in the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, attracts the peace-loving and the adventurous from around the globe. The tourist season starts from the end of May till the month of October.



Planning to do some crazy adventure trip in winters? I have an answer for you, “how about planning a Ride to Spiti Valley in winters and enjoy the views of frozen cold desert of trans-Himalayas?”. Well, the answer in the form of a question is very much appropriate when you think about making some crazy adventure trip up in Himalayas. However, there are things you must be aware about while making a trip to Spiti Valley in winters. Spiti Valley is not a region where you can just land, having no clue about the place, especially when you are talking about an offseason trip to such a remote place in Himalayas. Your habit of unplanned trips to Himalayas could lead you to in a serious trouble if you are really interested to take on the challenge of making a trip to Spiti Valley in winters.



In early November, when the temperature dips down to -10˚C, the hotels are closed for the tourists and the first spell of snowfall stops the government bus service from Kinnaur. The road from Manali closes much before that. The NGOs working to develop Spiti and some for their own development, postpone their activities for the next tourist season, leaving the people of Spiti to face the harsh winters head.After few more spells of snowfall and another drop of 10˚C in temperature, the road becomes extremely slippery and the only vehicles visible on these roads are private cars of Spiti people, local taxis, government jeeps, fuel trucks and ambulances.

It is when some brave hearts, venture, rovers out to explore the white Spiti, that remains hidden from the eyes of the regular travelers who visit during the tourist season. This post is to answer the frequent questions I get from such travelers, who want to experience Spiti when only few dare to drive on its snow-covered roads.

Difficulty Level – Extreme

This is what you should expect when you are driving to Spiti in winters.


Temperature in Spiti in winters 





The indoor temperature of my room will be -1˚C to -5˚C. 
The minimum temperature in Kaza goes down to -20˚C and will further drop as the winter progresses. Higher villages are more colder. So you have to prepare for it. It is colder than your freezer at home. There are only few places in India that gets colder than Spiti, so you won’t find many good brands in India to keep you warm.
Also, when your skin is wet, it will stick to the metal. NEVER pull it with force. It will tear out the skin with it.  Always pour hot water on the area and then gently pull it.

Accommodation Options 


All the hotels are closed and all the outsiders running travel and hospitality business have left the harsh weather of Spiti. So in the winters, you will get a chance to experience the real hospitality of the people of Spiti by staying with them in their warm houses or home-stays. Also, you will be contributing directly to the village economy.Most of the hotels or guest houses will be shut down along with places to eat. Stays will be available in the form of home stays where basic food is provided. Do not expect other facilities like mechanics, groceries, fruits, filter water bottles, etc.. to be available readily as well. You should be planning well and be prepared with anything and everything you might need in the winter adventure to Spiti Valley.

Note : Winter is not an off-season in Spiti. Living here in winter is expensive for a Spitian. So, bargaining at the home-stays with your logic of off-season prices is not only rude, its inconsiderate. Water needs to be carried from the hand-pumps. Add to it the cost of wood to keep you warm and the cost of fuel to cook food and tea for you. No one is giving you a place to stay to earn profit in the winters. They don’t want you to freeze.

Water Problem


The water in pipes freeze and hence, there will be no toilets with running water. In winters, the toilets remain locked and only dry pits (traditional toilets) are used where there is no water available. Hence, keep your expectations straight. Along with toilets, the washrooms will also not have any water. You can boil water and use it quickly to wash your face and hand couple of times a day. So, those of you who bath everyday and cannot live without it, winters will not be time to travel to Spiti Valley. 


The water in Spiti is extremely clean glacial water mixed with more minerals than any average mineral bottle you buy in the cities, but it is sometimes a problem for some people who are not able to digest those minerals. So, people with weak stomachs should bring mineral water with them and keep them in their rooms.


Also, inform your hosts in advance, if you want to bathe, or just help them pump water for you. Do not waste a drop of water.


Road Conditions



The presence of snow and ice at times when sun shines makes the road slushy. So, apart from snow and ice, expect to drive in slush as well. When the snow melts, especially towards the end of winters, March – April, the shooting stones are common as they come along with the dripping water. These are more common when there is light snowfall as that snow melts quickly.



The main road is maintained by the GREF, so they seem less experienced in properly cleaning the snow from the road.


Drive in a heavy gear at a speed where you don’t really have to apply brakes to stop the car.If your car starts losing control, don’t push the brakes suddenly! Just release the accelerator and gently steer to the intended direction.

Power Status


Well, when it snows heavily, the electric poles are swayed away or gets buried in the load of snow. So, carry enough spare batteries and keep them warm somewhere as batteries will also freeze to exhaust. Hence, keeping them warm is the key to run them long. This includes your phones as well. Keep phones inside your blankets/quilts while sleeping.


Carry enough cash as ATMs might not work as well. SBI bank in Kaza does provide you money even from the POS machine they have installed in the bank in case ATM is not working. However, cash is limited to Rs 1000 in a day.


Mobile Signal Status


You should not expect mobile signals for few days to weeks to months. Hence, you should inform your safety back at home, friends and relatives as soon as you see a possibility. Wifi in the bank, wifi in some hotel running a generator, use any possibility you can see available. Messages and Whatsapp work much better than calling homes. Carry only BSNL/MTNL connection.

Medical Help 


Do not expect much from the medical facilities as well. At times people have to use helicopter to be dropped off to safe spot in case of a medical emergency. However, if the helicopter will be able to fly or not, you will still be at mercy of weather gods. Carry basic and any on going medicines in enough stock to last long for a month or so in case required. Do not rely on anything to be procured locally. It is not recommended to travel at all in winters in case you have some ongoing ailment or illness.


Lifetime Experience 


If you have read all the points carefully and still want to drive to Spiti in the winters, than you should be ready for an adventure of a lifetime. You will be greeted with the real Spitian culture and lifestyle and the landscapes, only few had the chance to witness.










Forget about getting maximum likes and retweets for the pictures you will update after the trip. There are so many better things in life and driving to Spiti in winter is one of them. So don’t ruin the experience by clicking pictures all the time. Capture the moments in your mind. These moments will stay with you forever.




Keep Riding ...!!!