Thursday 21 May 2015

Goechala Trekking in Sikkim (North East) Himalayas

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The Goechala trek in Sikkim is also one of the most romantic trails the Indian Himalayas has to offer -- the enchanting walk through the Tshoka Rhododenderon forests, the vast Dzongri and Thansing meadows, the startling blue waters of Samiti lake, the looming presence of Kanchejunga and Pandim, the icy trail to Goechala make lots about the trek very romantic.

Uniqueness
  • Trek starting point: Yuksam
  • Trek ending point: Yuksam
  • Peak height: 4800 mts / 16000 ft.
  • Trek distance: Around 170 Km round trip
  • Time to trek: 7 - 6 Days
  • Camping site: At the base camps

How to Reach
  • By Road: Sikkim can be reached through northern areas of West Bengal. Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Siliguri are directly connected to Gangtok and other cities of the state.
  • By Rail: The nearest Railways Station is New Jalpaiguri (near Siliguri), which is linked with Gangtok. Gangtok has an extensive rail network with major Railway Stations in India, such as Kolkata, Delhi.
  • By Air: The nearest Airport is Bagdogra (near Siliguri) in West Bengal, which lays only 125kms away from Gangtok the capital of Sikkim. Bagdogra linked with cities like Delhi and Kolkata.
Things/Equipment to carry
1. Day Pack (Ruck sack) 
2. Cap (Sun hat)
3. Trekking (Hiking) boots with anklets
4. Raincoat or Poncho
5. Small Towel
6. Water Bottle
7. Sun cream / Cold Cream / Lip cream
8. Torch (Flash) light
9. Change of thermal wear / clothes / underwear / Socks
10. Woolen clothes and woolen Socks
11. Batteries
12. Toiletries
13. Light weight wind sheeter / Jacket / Pullover (Sweater)
14. Slippers or Sandals
Itineraries
Day 1: Getting to Yuksom, drive from NJP to Yuksom (6 hrs)
Day 2: Yuksom (5,700 feet) to Sachen (7,200 feet). 4 - 4 ½ hours.
Day 3: Sachen (7,200 feet) – Tshoka (9,650 feet). 3 ½ - 4 hours
Day 4: Tshoka (9,650 feet) – Dzongri (12,980 feet) via Phedang (12,050 feet). 5 - 6 hours. 
Day 5: Dzongri (12980ft) to Dzongri top (13681ft)
Day 6: Thansing (12894ft) to Lamuney (13,693ft). 4.2 kms 2 hours
Day 7: Lamuney (13,693ft) to Goechala (16,000 ft.) and back to Kockchurang. 10 - 12 hours 
Day 8: Kokchurang to Tshoka via Phedang. 6-7 hours
Day 9: Tshoka to Yuksom via Bhakim and Sachen. 6 hours
Day 10: Leave Yuksom early morning and reach NJP by 4.00 - 5.00 pm
Details
Day 1: Getting to Yuksom, drive from NJP to Yuksom (6 hrs) The Goechala trek starts at Yuksom, a fairly large settlement in West Sikkim. It was once the capital of Sikkim, so the culture in the town shows. It is also a nice quaint hill station and for those who want to avoid the hustle bustle of Darjeeling, Yuksom is a nice gateway. There are plenty of hotels in various budgets so staying is not a problem. A decent room with a shared bath works out to about Rs 300. The costlier rooms are around Rs 1,500. If you are on the Goechala trek there are two important things to do at Yuksom. One, make an entry at the police station. For this you need a photo identity proof with three photo copies. Two, you need to pay the permit fees at the forest check post (usually trekkers do this in the morning when they are starting the trek). The fee to be paid is broken down into small elements like tent, porter, yak and other charges. It can get somewhat confusing, but the net amount will boil down to about Rs 700 per person. Foreigners have it slightly more difficult. First, foreigners cannot trek alone; they need at least a partner. Two, they need to get a trekking permit from Gangtok (which usually their trekking agency will organize). Three, foreigners have to do the trek with a trekking agency – they cannot trek on the trail by themselves. Finally, once they enter Sikkim from any highway, their papers are going to be checked at the border.
Day 2: Yuksom (5,700 feet) to Sachen (7,200 feet). 4 - 4 ½ hours. 

From Yuksom, the Goechala trail starts just behind the houses after the forest check post. Cross the last few huts of Yuksom and skirt around the fields of Yuksom to enter the V shaped valley of the Rathong River (many mistake it for the Prek – earlier Prek and Pha Khola merge to form the Rathong). The trail, though passing through the fringes of the forest is exposed for about half hour. Midway through the exposed trail, look for a shelter on your right. From here onwards it is half hour to the first bridge over the Pha Khola. By the time the trail gets to Pha Khola, you are well into the thick of the forest and the coolness envelopes you at all times. The gently undulating trail climbs gradually. 

The next hour and half is a pleasant walk through the moist jungle until suddenly on your left the Tshushay Khola falls in a series of mini waterfalls joining the Prek below. 50 meters later a large iron bridge spans the Tshushay Khola. After the bridge the trail begins to climb more noticeably. An hour later watch for another small cement bridge over the Mentogang Khola (you won’t find a board telling you the name). You are already at 7,100 feet and it is only twenty minutes from here to the log hut of Sachen.
Day 3: Sachen (7,200 feet) – Tshoka (9,650 feet). 3 ½ - 4 hours this is a short trek, but the altitude gain is considerable. Trekkers love the initial amble through the forest – it gives them a chance to loosen up before the stiff climb to Bakhim from the bridge over Prek. The trail out of Sachen undulates but maintains an even altitude, in fact gaining a few feet until 45 minutes and 2 kms later you drop down to the bridge over Prek. The clear water of the Prek is worth savoring. You don’t meet the river until three days later at Kockchurang. 

The wooden bridge over Prek sways when you walk over it. Adorned with multitude of prayer flags wishing success to the expedition -- it signals the start of the real climbs of the Goechala trail – climbs that stay with you until you get to Goechala. Take the trail that begins to climb to the left of the bridge. The trail climbs sharp through a mixed oak forest until the wide switchbacks level somewhat half hour later at the sight of the first Rhododendrons. The altitude gain is rapid and the air gets cooler perceptively. Soon the trail climbs to the ridge and stays there until you get to Bakhim another half hour later. From the Prek it takes an hour to get to Bakhim (the total distance is only a kilometer but feels a lot longer). 

At over 9,000 feet high, Rhododenderon trees abound everywhere.
Day 4: Tshoka (9,650 feet) – Dzongri (12,980 feet) via Phedang (12,050 feet). 5 - 6 hours.

For most trekkers this day is perhaps the highlight of the Goechala trail. Everyone looks forward to the trek this day. For one, they trek through some of the densest Rhododendron forest India has to offer, and second, on the trail, suddenly the views open up to showcase the might of the highest mountains in Himalayas. 

Like yesterday, climb up to the little pond leading to the monastery, and then follow the trail that runs to its right. The trail begins to climb sharply and within minutes Tshoka is a tiny hamlet below you. Red Rhododendron trees spring up everywhere. If you are in season when the flowers bloom (May 1st/2nd week), then the entire slope lights up with a fiery red color. 

After a stiff climb for about 30 minutes, the trail evens out to a gradual climb. The trail changes to one paved over wooden logs. It is a delight with Rhododendrons fanning the path. Little wooden benches line on either side of the trail – which makes the trail look like it is in a park. Sometimes mist filter in surreally through the Rhododendron trees – but even in the magical setting the trail climbs throughout and trekkers feel the altitude. The log path gives way to a regular stony trail that climbs quickly to Phedang in 20 minutes. Phedang at 12,000 feet is a large clearing with superb views of the snow clad mountains.
Day 5: Dzongri (12980ft) to Dzongri top (13681ft)
Dzongri top is the highest point from where you get the 180 degree panoramic view of the mighty peaks of the Singalila and Kanchenjunga ranges. Dzongri top is a two hill climb from the Dzongri trekkers hut. The trek from Dzongri to Dzongri top takes about 45 mins. The sun rises at 5 a.m. and you don’t want to miss seeing the first rays of sun hitting Kanchanjunga. Start your trek at 4.00 a.m. with torch lights and you reach the top just as the dawn breaks. As you climb up, the peaks of the Singalila range begin to open up and just at the bend before the top, the Kanchenjunga and its neighbors make their appearance. Witness an inspiring sunrise and spend time watching the mountains changing colors in the sun rays. Spot Thansing, the destination for the day, Lamuney and Goechala peaks below you. On the other side, the green Rhododendron slopes extend for miles. Retracing your path to Dzongri takes 20 mins. 

Dzongri (12980ft) to Thansing (12894ft) via Kockchurang (12096ft). 5 - 6 hours 

Thansing is a meadow at the same altitude as Dzongri. The trail from Dzongri to Thansing descends a 1000ft to Kockchurang and then climbs a 1000ft to Thansing. 
Take the trail heading right from the Dzongri trekkers hut and go to the top of the ridge. It is a kilometer and 20 mins to the ridge top. From the ridge top you get to see Kanchenjunga, Pandim and the other peaks to the right towering over the meadows. Descend through the Rhododendron shrubs to the meadows. The meadow gently slopes down. The walk through the Dzongri meadows in the lap of the mighty mountains is as breathtaking as the view from Dzongri top. 

In half an hour Rhododendron shrubs occupy the slopes again. The gentle to medium descent continues over 2 hours. The Rhododendron shrubs suddenly give way to Rhododendron forest. The descent becomes steep and you lose more than 500ft. The forest is a good place to spot birds. Walk through silently and spot birds camouflaged in the browns and greens of the forest. 

Kockchurang springs up at the end of the descent. Just there find a route through the forest going right. It goes to Phedang. Kokchurang has a trekker hut but no real place to pitch tents. The Prekchu River flows next to the trekker hut 50 meters away. By the banks of the river, amidst the rocks 4-5 tents can be pitched.
Day 6: Thansing (12894ft) to Lamuney (13,693ft). 4.2 kms 2 hours 

The trek from Thansing to Lamuney is an easy one. Walk through the meadows heading closer to Goechala. The trek is inspiring because the mountains come closer and closer. The meadows tend to get rockier as you move ahead. The flat gradient suddenly gives way to an ascending trail and that’s the farthest you can camp. The ascending trail heads to Samiti lake where camping is no longer allowed. 

You may choose to trek further to Samiti Lake and spend an hour there. The trail ascends from Lamuney and it is a 45 minute stiff climb to the Samiti Lake. Notice the terrain being rocky all through the ascent. The climb suddenly flattens out and the deep blue waters of the lake come into the picture. Move closer to the shore of the lake and the blue does not change. If it is windy, the lake has waves too. Take a walk around the lake and sit besides its serene waters. The Samiti lake shores are home to mountain goats and blue birds which you are most likely to spot. 

Day 7: Lamuney (13,693ft) to Goechala (16,000 ft.) and back to Kockchurang. 10 - 12 hours 
This is the longest day of the trek and so start your day really early at 3 a.m. to give you multiple advantages. 
- A 3 a.m. start ensures that you reach the first view point or the sunrise point right in time to see the first run rays hitting Kanchenjunga.
- It also makes it easier to walk on the moraines that you find after the sunrise point as the snow is still hard. 
- The probability of getting good views are higher in the mornings. 
- Lastly gives you enough time to go all the way to Goechala and return to Kockchurang. 

Do not plan to leave earlier than 3 a.m. as it is mostly not required and the lack of sleep can tend to tire out people unnecessarily. A lot of people would misguide you saying it is impossible to go further if you are late but these are not really true. Even a 5 a.m. start from Lamuney can take you all the way to Goechala but you will miss out on the sunrise. 

The trail to Goechala goes behind Samiti Lake and beyond. Mt. Pandim is always to your right and the left is also lined by huge snow walls. Climb to the ridge on top of Samiti Lake and then traverse right on the narrow trail on the flank of the mountain. A bit more of a climb and you reach the sunrise or the first view point of Goechala in less than two hours from Lamuney. Mt. Pandim and to your right and Kanchenjunga raises just in front. Spend a few moments here before starting your descent to Zemathang. Zemathang is a sand bed covered with snow and gravel. From Zemathang Goechala is a climb of about one and a half hours.
Day 8: Kokchurang to Tshoka via Phedang. 6-7 hours 

The days trek can be divided into two phases. The first from Kockchurang to Phedang – a direct trail by passing Dzongri and second, the Rhododendron forest trail from Phedang to Tshoka.

The first phase is new and interesting. The trail goes on the flank on the mountain all along and you move from one mountain to another to another maintaining a constant altitude of 12,000ft all along. Kokchurang, Phedang and most of the trail, are all at 12,000ft! 

Take the diversion to the left inside the forest instead of climbing up to Dzongri. The trail remains mostly flat with small descents and ascents only to switch between mountains. Rhododendron trees line your way all along and the Prekchu flows below. Look left and at a number of places you get lovely views of Mt. Pandim and its neighbors. Phedang is 10 kms away and this is one of the longest trails between two known campsites. It takes about 4 hours to reach Phedang.
From Phedang you retrace the descending trail to Tshoka. The days trek takes about 6-7 hours on an average. 

Day 9: Tshoka to Yuksom via Bhakim and Sachen. 6 hours 

Retrace your way from Tshoka to Yuksom. Its much faster and easier than your trek up. Sachen comes up quickly being a pure descent. From Sachen the trail goes up and down generally losing altitude. The last stretch has a few climbs which makes you wonder but its soon over and you find yourself back in the friendly Yuksom neighborhood. 

Day 10: Leave Yuksom early morning and reach NJP by 4.00 - 5.00 pm 

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